The Ten Commandments of Travel

Here, in no particular order, are what I think are the Ten Commandments of non-resort/-cruise solo travel.

1.  People make a place great

2.  Expect little

3.  Learn how to cope with stress

4.  You will be discomfited

5.  Don't eat in the main square

6.  Savour the good moments

7.  Be open

8.  Don't become impatient

9.  Don't be afraid to ask

10.  Prepare mentally

1.  People make a place great

No matter where you go you will encounter other people.  Without other people the places you visit tend to be lonely and even the most beautiful places can be boring.  The most remote nature hike is made infinitely better by having good company.  Always try to meet new people and when you do meet good people - cultivate their friendship.  The people you spend time with make a place fun, exciting and great - the place merely provides setting.

2.  Expect little

When you expect too much you will always be disappointed.  When you expect nothing you tend to know nothing and can miss out on things you'd like to see.  Do the barest minimum of research, but keep your expectations as low as possible and you'll always enjoy the places you visit.

3.  Learn how to cope with stress

You are going to make mistakes.  You, and sometimes other people, are going to put you in positions that would normally cause you to panic at home.  Find a coping mechanism to deal with that stress.  Stay calm no matter the circumstances, forget past mistakes, even if they just happened, and figure out how to get on with it.

4.  You will be discomfited

While traveling there will always be something bothering you.  Develop a method for coping with frequent minor discomforts.  Sunburn, sore legs & feet, cuts & bruises, bug bites, sickness, uncomfortable beds, wet clothes, freezing cold showers, scalding hot showers, no showers at all, a severe lack of privacy, annoying people and many other minor (and sometimes major!) discomforts will plague you constantly.  Don't let them get to you, in the grand scheme of things, they are unimportant.

5.  Never eat in the main square

The price of food in a main square, excepting shit American fast food, is always going to be two to three times the cost of the food one street over.  Wherever you're staying find out from the hostel/hotel staff where the cheapest area of town is, or what restaurants they personally eat at.  It's usually the next district over from the town centre - a 10 minute walk in most cases - and the food is often better AND local, in addition to being affordable.

6.  Savour the good moments

This is why you travel.  If you, like me, struggle to recognize them as they are happening - that sucks.  But, the rare times you do realize how great a moment is - savour it.  The few moments, days or periods make up for all the discomfort, stress and annoyance.  The good moments are what other people dream about experiencing - capture them in your mind first and with your camera second (if even possible!).

7.  Be open

Do you travel to experience what you could experience at home?  No!  Try new foods and drinks, say hello and make eye contact with random people (commandment #1!), and never let your fear tell you no.  Take a chance on something you've never heard of and it might lead to one of the best experiences of your life.  I'm not advocating being risky, still be wary, but never let your personal inhibitions or petty fears stop you from trying something new.

8.  Don't become impatient

You will have to wait a lot.  Wait for a flight, coach or train.  Wait to check in.  Wait in a queue.  Wait while you travel from place to place with your butt parked in a chair for hours.  Don't let yourself get annoyed.  People that get annoyed by this tend to become angry and often annoy those around them - even if just through body language.  Always have a means of entertaining yourself no matter where you are, and relax, you're on holidays!

9.  Don't be afraid to ask

You will get lost.  You will get confused.  You won't know what, or even how, to order.  Don't be afraid to ask for help or for recommendations.  The people from the countries you travel to will see you as a curiosity, and more often than not, they will want to help you.  Even if its just makeshift sign language and pointing at a map to get you headed in the right direction or you smiling and waving your arms around to order food.  Most people will meet you half way, even if you can't speak a common language.

10.  Prepare mentally

The most important of my travel commandments is mental preparation.  I will emphasize nothing more!  Always prepare yourself: whether its having stress coping mechanisms, point A to point B contingency plans or simple lies to get away from creepy people.  There is no way to be 100% ready for everything, which is where #3 comes in, but the further you travel and the more experienced you get, the better prepared you will be to cope with whatever gets thrown at you.

Just because I can't stress this last point enough: you need to figure out which part of travel worries you the most and find a way to always be able to cope with it.

For me, I HATE being lost and I get unreasonably worried when I don't know where I am or how I'm going to get to where I want to be.  I carry paper maps, google maps on my phone, local maps from hostels and I get directions from random people.  So far, I've yet to be truly lost (I have been intentionally lost, though!) the entire trip and that has kept my stress levels so in check I have rarely felt stressed at all.  Figure out what causes you the most stress and find a coping mechanism to deal with it.

The Netherlands

After sauntering my way through London, South Western England, Northern France and Belgium my traveling speed started to increase and my desire to see 'everything' a country had to offer started to decrease.  This is partly explained by only making a fraction of the distance I wanted to travel while taking quite a long time to do it, and partly by a need to get east ASAP to save money.

I don't feel like I've spent enough time in the Netherlands, nor have I been to enough places, to feel like I've explored the country nearly adequately.  Considering how often I meet and enjoy meeting other Dutch travellers it seems a shame I spent so little time there.

In arriving in the Netherlands I did what all tourists do - I went to Amsterdam first.  I thankfully have friends in Utrecht and I spent a day in the much smaller and (to my mind) much nicer city.  I also visited Arnhem on my last night and this blog entry will cover only those three cities.  A completely inadequate picture of the Netherlands follows.

Amsterdam

Amsterdam usually holds an aura of bohemian delightedness to foreign travellers eager to get caught up in all of the things that are only easily available in Amsterdam.  I'm not that kind of traveler.  I'm not interested in drugs.  I'm not interested in the myriad forms of the sex trade.  I was there in the offseason on three week nights.  Maybe I'm just doing it wrong?

I did find things to do which I really enjoyed in Amsterdam.  If you like art, the Rijkmuseum is a fantastic place to visit.  If you don't like art, the Rembrandt floor is worth a visit anyway.  The incredible skill required to produce the artwork on display there, in such density, can be a bit difficult to take in all at once.

I also visited a place I'd been planning on visiting since I'd decided to travel to Europe - the Anne Frank House.  After reading the Diary of Anne Frank I'd been interested in seeing the part of Amsterdam where her tragic story took place.  The outside looked so nondescript and simple that I started to understand how the families in the house had been able to live in the centre of Amsterdam for several years undetected.  As I walked through the rooms and saw the places she described so vividly I couldn't help but be impacted by it.  The rooms haven't been refurbished by request of Otto Frank.  I think it detracts from what you expect to see, but in hindsight, it makes the house into a more solemn memorial - the whole point of the place.  I hope it stays as it is.

I did try going out for conventional nightlife in Amsterdam and I found it underwhelming, expensive and quiet.  I also went to the Red Light District a couple of times - my second hostel was right in it!

The RLD is a very curious place.  I can't claim to have been too many places where large groups of severely inebriated (in some form or another) men and women wander the streets; where women with perfectly sculpted bikini-clad bodies stand behind large windows and tap their long fake nails on the glass anytime someone walks past; and where seedy smoke-filled coffee shops offering a wide ranging selection of marijuana products sit nicely beside perfectly normal looking pubs.  The biggest difference being the row upon row of neon red lights everywhere!

I decided while I was there that I'd at least go to one RLD institution - a sex show at the Cafe Rosso.  It's quite odd to walk in to what looks like a movie theatre, with at least 40+ other people around you, have a beer, and watch a very intense set of 'performances'.  My North American sensibilities had me thinking it should've felt weirder to be there, but it seemed so normal for the RLD that I didn't feel creepy or creeped out at all.

I also did some plain old regular sightseeing in Amsterdam.  I visited the main squares, I walked the canals, I walked through the park, and I went to the churches and the memorials.  The city just didn't jump out at me.  I didn't want to extend my stay and left after a mere three nights.

Utrecht

I had organized a ride share to get from Arnhem to Berlin and had one day to get from Amsterdam to Arnhem.  Twenty minutes by train from Amsterdam is the city of Utrecht, a place I'd always intended to visit.  I'd wanted to visit the city because I'd heard it was beautiful, and because I'd made friends from Utrecht when I'd traveled through South America two years previously.

I spent one full day in the city.  I arrived from Amsterdam around ten in the morning, ditched my backpack in a locker in the train station, and set out to walk the canals.  The canals in Utrecht are much prettier than in Amsterdam and you can get a lot closer to them.  Nice parks run through the city and make the whole inner city a very nice and relaxing place to walk around.

The old city itself has a nice blend of tourist traps, traditional market and shopping areas, nice little cafes and some really nice pubs.  In the evening I met up with one of my friends and we went out to a large manor house turned underground church turned Belgian beer pub for dinner and drinks.  This was the experience I wanted to have in Amsterdam!

Arnhem

My last stop in the Netherlands was the town of Arnhem.  Even before getting to the Netherlands I wanted to visit Arnhem.  When I saw an opportunity to get a cheap ride from Arnhem to Berlin I jumped at it.  Arnhem is quite a small city and the only hostel in the city is expensive and RIDICULOUSLY FAR AWAY.  To make it more exciting I arrived from Utrecht at eleven at night smelling of Belgian beer and the local buses had shut down for the night.  Its a good thing I love carrying a heavy backpack for an hour while climbing into the hills (I'm also quite sure it's the only hill in the entire country).

Arnhem was the last western WWII memorial I visited on my trip through Europe.  I walked through the old city, had a wander through market stalls, looked at old medieval towers and eventually made it to the purpose of my journey - A Bridge Too Far.  I didn't know what I expected to feel or see when I was there - I simply wanted to go and see the bridge and stand on it.  At the end of the day, it is just a bridge.

Conclusion

Based on my experiences in the Netherlands, I'm not enamoured.  Based on the numerous Dutch travellers I've met, I feel I owe the country another chance.  I think it's important to know your personal tastes when you go to a country like the Netherlands, and specifically Amsterdam.  See what you want to see while you're there and don't get caught up trying to see what other people think you should.

Point A to Point B - Intercity Travel

I've traveled quite a bit, more so than most, and often for extended periods.  I also tend to move quickly from one place to another - I want as diverse an experience as possible and I want to see as much as possible in my limited timeframe.  Here's a few tips to help you get from Point A to Point B by public transport.

Air

Traveling by air is my least favourite form of travel.  Air travel always has the longest queues, the longest waiting time between connections, and is usually the least comfortable of all point to point journeys. Air travel is almost always the most expensive, but it is by far the fastest way to travel over 700+ km.  Any less than that and maybe consider train or coach.

Pros:

- The only way to keep your sanity when crossing oceans.

- RyanAir or WizzAir offer extremely cheap flights in Europe, but ensure your luggage is fit to be carried on.

- Sometimes the only way to conveniently get from one place to another which doesn't consume a precious day of sightseeing if you are time limited.

- Sometimes has free wifi, but it rarely works.

Cons:

- Highest propensity to end up beside a small squawking child with zero means of escaping.

- Very confined.  If you are claustrophobic or jittery take a Valium or a few drinks before getting on the plane (but not too much - you can be refused boarding if shitfaced!).

- Expensive or inconvenient to get to and from most airports.

- Many airlines take great joy in charging you extra for a bag, additional bags or heavy bags.

- Extremely slow when taking short flights.  A half hour flight can end up being four when factoring pre- and post-flight travel, security check-ins and waiting time.

- Long flights sap your will to live, and if not, at least leave you jet lagged for a day or two afterwards.

- You see nothing but clouds.  Nice scenery every now and then, but not the norm.

What you need to do:

- Be at the airport 1 hour early for small airports, 2 hours early for large airports.  You need less time for domestics and more for internationals.

- If you are booking your flights separately (not keeping your connections within a group of partnered companies) always leave 1.5 to 2 hours at minimum when connecting to collect your bags and check them into the next airline.  Any less and you'll have to run, or you may miss your flight altogether.

- Never book flights separately when connecting three or more flights together, especially rural flights.  If even one is late you can end up wasting a lot of money.

- Always find out where your flight is departing from as soon as possible.  Some airports organize their terminals by airline (thus all planes of an airline are together), while others (smaller, less airline funded?) give you lettered terminals that combine airlines together.

- International airports usually have separate domestic and international terminals.  Usually, planes are in the correct terminal, but sometimes they are not.  Always give the boards a check before going through security.

- Be at your gate early - it saves you stress.  Get snacks, water, and a toilet break once you've scoped out the area.

- Don't fret foreign languages or obtuse departure boards.  Remember your flight number, find out what your terminal and gate numbers are, get to the correct terminal, and finally, get to your gate.  Every airport lists their gate directions clearly.

Train

Overland train travel can be a very mixed experience, like air travel.  Depending on your budget, train travel can often be faster over medium distances and is usually more comfortable than air travel.  Comfort is especially better with the cheaper train options vs the cheaper air options, and about the same as with most buses, except when compared with South American coach travel.

Pros:

- Overall faster or of similar speed when compared to air travel on short plane trips (~300-500km).

- The highest level of comfort costs significantly less than the highest level of comfort when compared with traveling by air.

- Trains are cheap in certain countries (Poland, Slovenia).

- Domestic trains are cheaper than international trains over similar distances.

- Trains are sometimes empty giving you an entire room or row of chairs to yourself (unlike either the plane or the bus which are almost always full).

- A direct train from one big city to another is often cheaper than a train to an adjoining city on the same route.  If you have time to check prices in advance, do so.  Be aware, though, that express trains don't stop along the way.

- No luggage fees.

- Sometimes (infrequently) has free wifi.

- It is easy to find schedules online, and routes are rarely missing from online schedules.

Cons:

- Regional trains are very slow and will usually require several transfers to get from one city to the next, but they are always the cheapest option.

- Trains are expensive in certain countries (Austria, England, France, Germany).

- International trains are more expensive than domestic trains over a similar distance.

- Trains usually cost more than the coach for a similar travel experience.

- Certain regions have no train coverage at all.

- Trains can often be full leaving you with standing room only or with an uncomfortable fold down seat in the hallway (I've used my backpack as a seat in a bike car before!).

- Taking large luggage on a train can be a very annoying experience.  Not recommended for huge bags.

- The scenery usually isn't very good.  Trees and bushes along train routes rarely get cleared so most of the time you see nothing.  Every now and then, though, stunning views!

What you need to do:

- In Europe with an iPhone?  Get the 'Rail Planner' app.  It is an absolute lifesaver.

- Book in advance to reduce the cost of tickets and to ensure you get a seat on a busy train.

- Avoid taking the train during busy times of the day (7:30 to 9:30am, 12:00 to 2:00pm, and 4:00 to 6:30pm).

- The cost of the train is related to its style and service.  High speed trains are expensive.  Intercity trains are a bit less expensive.  Regional trains are cheap.

- Show up 15 minutes before your train departs.  You rarely need to be earlier than that as most trains are only given a platform 15-30 minutes ahead of their arrival and departure.

- When you get your tickets ask the following:  Is the train on time?  What platform is it on?  What region of the platform is your car (if they have that information)?  What platform are your connections on?  What wagon are you in?  What seat are you in?  Do you need to validate your ticket?  Note that not all trains mandate that you have a seat reservation, and most regional trains have no reservations at all.  If you ask all these questions, every time, I can guarantee that you will never be lost or confused.

- If the station provides timetables for your train (usually on the platform) - take a picture or write it down so you can keep track of the stations as you pass them.

- If the station provides information boards that have the train layouts (usually on the platform), find out which car, or sequence of cars, you should be getting on.  If you have a reserved seat find out how many cars from the front yours is.  If not, find out where the first class cars, the restaurant car and the second class cars are so you know which section to get on.  It's much easier to walk down the platform than the inside of the train.

- Many stations list a platform number and regions of that platform, ie:  Platform 1, A to D.  If you can find out where the cars stop you can be first in line to get on  your car and to the primo baggage storage areas or seats (less of a concern if you don't have a monstrous backpack like I do).

- Always check the identification of the train as you get on it.  You don't want to get on the wrong train.  If you're not sure, ask someone!

- Keep track of where you are.  Don't miss your exit station or panic and get off too early.

- As the train comes into station collect your things and head to the doors before the train stops.  Many trains stop for less than a minute and you don't want to get caught on board while grabbing your stuff as it pulls away.

- If you are connecting and your time is short: get off the train, head straight to the nearest departure board, identify your train (by DEPARTURE TIME, then DESTINATION, then TRAIN NUMBER), and hustle to your platform.  If you are in a rural area without electronic boards, or in a poorer country, consult the information boards provided on the platform to find the correct platform to get to.

Bus

Coach travel varies wildly from country to country.  In some countries the bus system is barely used and can be relaxing, fast and efficient.  In others, coach travel is the only thing available and can be busy, hot and stressful.  Coach travel is always cheaper than either air or train travel (except the budget airlines) over long distances and it is usually cheaper over short distances.

Pros:

- Intercity buses tend to be air conditioned and direct - making for a quick and pleasant(ish) trip.

- Usually cheaper than either train or plane over short to medium distances (100-700km).

- Sleeper buses can be extremely comfortable (sleeper buses don't seem to exist in Europe, but are normal in South America).

- No luggage fees in some countries (most of South America, parts of Europe).

- Sometimes (very rarely) has free wifi.

- Usually the best scenery of all forms of travel.  Too bad you can't stop to get out and take pictures.

Cons:

- Can be extremely uncomfortable (very full, no air conditioning, everyone reeking of cigarette smoke, and screaming children every other seat).

- Regional buses (many stops) are often late, and if not late, very slow.

- Small luggage fees in some countries (Europe is usually €1-3 per bag).

- It can be very difficult to find schedules online and most schedules you find are incomplete.

- Most bus drivers in Eastern Europe smoke while driving.  Air conditioning be damned.

What you need to do:

- Book in advance to ensure you get a seat on a busy route.

- Show up 15 minutes before your bus departs.

- When you get your tickets ask the following:  What platform does the bus leave from?  Do you have a reserved seat?  Note that not all buses mandate that you have a seat reservation, and while most buses have reservations, it is rare that people actually sit in their assigned seats.  Just find a spot on the bus and hope no whiny people try to make you move.  If you don't have a reserved seat you can end up moving around a lot or standing, but its rarely a problem if you just hold your ground.

Ferry

The more you travel the more likely you will need to cross a body of water.  For oceans, take a plane.  For seas and smaller bodies of water, however, ferries can be a very appealing option.

Pros:

- Very relaxed way to travel from one coast to another.  Food, toilets and sometimes even live bands!

- Lots of space in common areas.

- Often the only way (excepting huge bridges or undersea tunnels) to get your car from one side of a sea to the other.

- Can be a decent price if booked well in advance.

- Wifi.

Cons:

- Very slow.

- Can be expensive if you don't book in advance.

- Suffers from the same problems as train or coach travel when in reserved seating.

- Note that reserved seats are uncomfortable and not made for sleeping in.  Reserved beds are uncomfortable and claustrophobic, but you can actually sleep in them.

- Rough seas can make you seasick.

- The ship captain might abandon you to your death if your ferry capsizes.

What you need to do:

- Show up 10 minutes before boarding if walking on, or about 30-60 minutes before, if driving.  If you don't have your tickets, arrive earlier to give yourself more time.

- Decide whether you think you'll be able to find an out of the way spot in a common area to sleep, or whether you want to feel exhausted and sore the next day from a reserved seat, or whether you want to feel sore but rested the next day from an overpriced bunk.

- Keep track of the time and set an alarm.  You don't want to miss disembarking - doubly so if you have a car and don't want it towed.

Foot

The oldest form of travel.  I almost never travel from city to city by foot, but I list walking here because too many people are focused on public transport options (myself included).  I find that I often can save a lot of time and a little money by walking.  When you are considering small scale (5km) Point A to Point B trips - don't forget walking.

The COLLECTION

I offered to bring a few beers from Belgium to the Czech Republic.  A simple premise you say?  No!  A heroic undertaking!

The Glassware

From left to right:  the beers and whether or not they made it to the promised land.

- Westvleteren Glass

- St. Bernardus Glass

- Boon Kriek (Made it)

- Cantillon Rose de Gambrinus (Made it)

- Grimbergen Tripel (Cut)

- Grimbergen Gold (Cut)

- Bink Blond (Cut)

- St. Bernardus Abt 12 (Made it)

- Westvleteren Blond (Cut)

- Westvleteren 8 (Cut)

- Westvleteren 12 (Made it)

- Orval (Made it)

- Rochefort 8 (Made it)

- Rochefort 10 (Made it)

- Westmalle Tripel (Made it)

- Westmalle Dubbel (Made it)

- Westmalle Glass

- Westvleteren Glass

Collecting

The best part of making a beer collection is trying a host of different beers and determining which of them make the grade.  Even better is trying the beers which you already know make the grade, but which you've only read about.

The collection ranged from all over Belgium.  Orval in the far south east, Westmalle in the north and Westvleteren in the south west.

The picture of the collection above isn't completely authentic, either.  There were more beers in the collection at one point, but they didn't make the final cut.  There are also several beers in the picture which were consumed that night to reduce weight and to save space.  Lastly, there are two beers that should be in the picture:  Delirium Tremens and De Garre Quadrupel.  The first is missing because I forgot to buy it and the second because it isn't bottled.

The COLLECTION is also very focused on Trappist beers.  During my beerlgrimage through Belgium I focused on visiting the Trappist abbey breweries, which accounts for Orval, Westmalle, and Rochefort.  Missing is Achel & Chimay.  LaTrappe is also missing, but its Dutch so it doesn't quite count.  The last of the seven, Westvleteren, we managed to find in a bottle shop in Bruxelles.  I tried frequently to call the abbey's "beer phone" to arrange to pick some up, but had no luck whatsoever getting through.

Travel

The final list that made the journey was 3 glasses and 9 bottles.  I brought a over the shoulder messenger bag, a collapsible duffel bag and a 75L backpack on the trip with me.  Before even getting a single beer into it my backpack was quite full.  Where was I going to put it all?

With some ingenious packing, using socks as beer covers, using a duffel bag as dirty laundry storage, and by strapping as much as humanly possible to the outside of the backpack I managed to get it all in.  But, goddamn was it heavy.

As I started traveling from west to east I started to use ride sharing almost entirely.  Public transport with a massive backpack is REALLY unpleasant, but ride share?  Easy.  I traveled from Lille to Bruxelles, to Amsterdam, to Utrecht, to Arnhem, to Berlin, to Prague, and finally to Breclav with all the extra weight.  By the time we finally got down to drinking I had a back made of iron and neck muscles like steel cables.

Consumption

At long last I made it to Pohansko-Breclav.  Not more than seconds after getting out of the taxi did I suddenly feel excitement.  Not only to ditch the weight, but also to try all of those beers again!

We went out for a nice dinner that evening and when we got back the tastings began.  It was an excellent evening.  The new friends I made and the amazed look on their faces as they tried the strange, yet delicious, beers was priceless.  In the end, it felt completely worth the effort and I hope everyone that got to try them enjoyed them!

Belgium (part 2)

Central Flanders - Waterloo & Ghent

One of the must see stops on my trip through Belgium was Waterloo.  The site of one of the most famous battles in European history.  It is well known worldwide and lends its name to numerous organisations, public buildings and places.  I was excited to visit the place where Napolean and the French Empire were finally stopped by an alliance of the British, Dutch and Prussian armies.

I was pleasantly surprised by Waterloo as I'd heard several derogatory remarks made about the site - most famously by Lord Wellesly himself who decried the ruining of his beautiful battlefield.  The monument at the site was built on the spot on the ridge where the Prince of Orange was injured in the battle.  Sadly, in making the monument, the ridge the battle was fought on is now gone.

I think the thing that surprised me the most wasn't the site of the battle, or the not so interesting museum, or even the amazing view afforded by a climb to the top of the monument.  The most interesting part of visiting Waterloo was the nearby panorama painting with accompanying props and music.  I think it is one of the most impressive combinational forms of art I've ever seen.

After leaving Waterloo I headed up to Ghent for a night's sleep on a canal boat - something I was very much looking forward to.  It turned out to be better than I thought it would be!  The boat itself was beautiful and comfortable and the city was even more so.  Several times I wished I had had more time to spend there.  Alas, I was a slave to my schedule.  The next morning, after climbing a bell tower and looking through Ghent's churches, I headed to what was about to become the favourite city of my journey up to that point: Brugge.

Before I move on completely, however, I feel I need to bring us back to what's important - the beer!  For years I'd been drinking a beer called Guulden Draak and its quite safe to say I was completely ignorant of its origins.  Until I got to Ghent that is.  The beer is brewed to the north of Ghent and takes its name from the large golden dragon mounted on the top of Ghent's belfry.  My story of Belgium: from complete ignorance to stunned amazement every single day.

West Flanders - Brugge and Ieper (Ypres)

I love Brugge.  No, I haven't seen the movie.  Yes, I know I should've watched it before I left and yes, I do plan on watching it in the future.

Brugge was the second city that I was planning on visiting on my travels which had been declared a UNESCO heritage site.   If you've read my previous blog on visiting Bath, England, you'll know I was expecting a lot from Bath and felt a bit let down when leaving.  I arrived in Brugge with no expectations whatsoever, and was totally blown away by the city.

I'll break down how I spent my time in Brugge to a few parts: the food, the sights, good friends and a day trip to Ieper.

Brugge was the first place where I truly went all out on Belgian food.  Frites from a highly recommended stand below the bell tower, fresh strawberries from a local farmer's market, sugary waffles from a street vendor, freshly made pralines from a chocolatier and my second favourite beer from my trip to Belgium - accompanied by a delicious local cheese, of course.  I did not have one bad meal while in the city.  One of the best stops if my whole visit was to a hidden away pub down a narrow alley, Staminee de Garre.  I think that anyone that enjoys incredibly good beer should visit the difficult to find, but extremely cool, little pub when in Brugge.

Brugge is a beautiful city.  Narrow and mazy cobbled streets, several gigantic cathedrals, huge medieval defensive towers, massive medieval market squares, and swan-filled canals crisscross, surround and fill the city.  Everywhere you go in Brugge the sights are beautiful and the whole city feels authentically old and medieval.

It was by happenstance that two friends of mine were traveling through Europe, specifically Brugge and Bruxelles, at the same time that I was.  I always enjoy travelling with other people and getting to enjoy Brugge, Ieper and Bruxelles with friends was a great and unexpected pleasure.  Not only seeing the sights together, but also comparing notes on all the different Belgian beers, as well.

On my last night in Brugge I took a day trip to the small town of Ieper (Ypres).  For most, Ieper is not a major draw, but for Canadians it should be required visiting.  There are two battles (potentially three, with Paschendaele, just north of Ieper) from WWI which are extremely important to the national identity of Canada.  The battle of Ieper helped shape the perceptions of other nations toward Canadians due to the skill and bravery of the soldiers who fought and died there.  After the battle of Ieper our soldiers were recognized for the first time as Canadians, and not just as British (except by the British, of course).

The war memorials in Ieper are beautiful and the memorial arch listing the names of all those who died defending the city in WWI is an extremely solemn place.  The In Flanders museum, while slightly disjointed, is one of the best WWI museums in the world.  But, it would be foolish to focus only on sad or dark moments of the history of Ieper as the present day city is beautiful.  The huge town hall and massive cathedral dominate the centre of the city.  Small cobbled streets radiate out in every direction and while touristy, it does not feel nearly as fake as many other cities I've visited.  The most prominently heard language is Dutch, which is usually a good indicator of local vs. tourist density.

Of course, you can't forget about the Belgian beer.  Our day trip to Ieper was to take us past the last of the Trappist abbeys in my beerlgrimage: Westvleteren.  Westvleteren Abbey produces what many beer rating websites consider to be the best beer in the world.  One thing I am certain of is that regardless of its taste, it is one of the most difficult beers in the world to acquire.  The bad news from our story?  We didn't check the schedule closely enough and the cafe at the abbey was closed on the day we arrived there.  Damnit!

Bruxelles

After leaving Brugge I returned my car hire to Lille, France and returned to the drudgery of public transport as I headed to Bruxelles.  I had quite purposefully avoided Bruxelles during my car travels through Belgium as I wanted to avoid driving through the city at all costs and I figured that public transport would be more than adequate to get around. It was a good decision.  The traffic in Bruxelles is horrendous and the public transport is quite good.

When I arrived in Bruxelles I was to stay with my friends who'd rented a nice flat in a posh area of the city.  We spent a couple of days wandering the city, taking pictures, finding nice cafes and cooking our own dinners.  I even got to see the national team play a football game on TV!

Over three days spent in the European capital I did and saw quite a lot.  A lot more than I expected to!  A few of the places I went to were a bit underwhelming, like the Atomium, while others were fantastic.

On my last day in Bruxelles I visited the armaments museum and AutoWorld.  The armaments museum had a varied, and incredible, collection of planes ranging from WWI bi-planes to an F16 holding down the centre of the hangar.  The next room over?  A number of APC's and tanks.  The next room from that?  What appeared to be every single weapon used to wage war from the 14th to the 19th century.

After the orgy of weapons and war vehicles I went across the street to AutoWorld.  It was a car orgy featuring old cars from as far back as the Model T to brand new Lamborghinis on display for the Italian company's birthday.  After a thoroughly enjoyable day checking out museums I headed back to the city centre and had the last Belgian frites of the trip at Fritland and my last beer at a small Belgian restaurant which served delicious rabbit cooked in kriek paired with a nice sour lambic.

Oh right!  How could i forget to talk about the beer?  I also went to one of my favourite breweries while I was in Bruxelles: Cantillon.  Located in a poorer neighbourhood (which may have been quite nice when they opened over 100 years ago), the Cantillon Brewery is stashed in an ancient old rundown factory building south of the old city.  It exudes character, charm and cobwebs in this ultra traditional Belgian brewery which relies on wild yeast to ferment their delicious lambics.  Cantillon was the site of one of the best beer tastings I had all trip and it may be the only brewery in Belgium that you can actually walk through!  Check the last picture for their open top wort tank which the wild yeast gets in through!

Conclusion

As I said at the beginning of part 1 - I loved Belgium and before arriving I wanted to love it.  The sights in Belgium are beautiful, but the key to enjoying Belgium is to eat and drink your way through the country.  My Belgian friend tried to explain Belgian food to me:  "Belgians enjoy food, Frenchmen cook it."  I didn't fully understand what he meant at first, but I think I do now.  The quality, taste and experience of eating and drinking is what's important to Belgians, not so much the method of preparation - except when the method creates the taste. How can you not like eating in a country like that?

As to the sights of Belgium - every city seems to have its own quaint or classy charm.  For such a small country Belgium feels varied.  Small charming cities like Brugge and Ieper take you back in time in the west.  Switchback roads, cliffs and rolling hills take you into areas which look untouched by men in the east.  The middle is a mix of the two: nature and city, French and Dutch.  Altogether I spent 10 days in Belgium and I quite easily could've stayed longer!

Next stop: The Netherlands.