Luxembourg

As I drove north from Metz, France on my way towards Luxembourg I vainly tried to remember any history that I could of the country.  The only thing I could seem to piece out was that it was at one point a Grand Duchy and I figured that it must have been very difficult to attack for it to have stayed independent when squashed between the Netherlands (pre-Belgium), Germany and France.

Luxembourg City is built along several precipitous ridges in beautiful rolling green countryside.  Getting lost there is easy and its even easier to find yourself on a bridge to a completely different hill with no straightforward way to get back.  I arrived in Luxembourg City early in the afternoon, but I got so lost it took me nearly an hour to get to my hostel by way of every winding and indirect street in the city.

When I finally arrived I was able to get out and walk through the old town to see the sights - my favourite way to explore a new place.  It was then made obvious why Luxembourg had remained independent for so long - it would be a horrendous place to assault.  Walls ring the hills and defensive towers are everywhere, even now.  Huge fortified palaces stand on top of every hill and where the hills aren't, there are fast moving small river beds.

The one thing I had expected of Luxembourg - it being expensive - exceeded my expectations.  A rule of travel should be 'never eat in a city's central square' and this was more true of Luxembourg City than most.  An average meal was €25, ouch!  One block away, however, I could get a very nice meal for €10.  It felt reasonable at the time, but after being in the eastern parts of Europe the prices in the west are astoundingly high.

I made a friend in Luxembourg who was traveling in a similar direction as I was.  She decided to tag along with me to Belgium and we set out the next morning - I was glad to be traveling with someone again and she was glad to be away from public transport for a day.

Our first stop was Esche-Sauer - one of the most picturesque little villages I've ever been to.  The quaint little town surrounds a castle topped hill with a horseshoe shaped river valley providing a beautiful and natural moat.  The castle is mostly ruined, sadly, but the view from the top of the ruins is breathtaking.

I did not spend very long in Luxembourg, but the quaint little towns, the beautiful rolling hills, and the vibrant green countryside all made me think I'd like to come back and explore it further - preferably on foot with a tent.